Friday, 3 January 2014

"Bro, chill out, we're in Nepal" and the trail to UNESCO for the snow leopard, forest leopard and tiger...


Patience really is a virtue.  I'm in a race with time, well, a race with nature actually.  I've been down at lake level in Pokhara for several days longer than I hoped I would be.  There are things beyond my control. I have to get back to altitude quickly before winter potentially closes off a trail because of avalanche risk.  To compound matters a couple of days ago my height was once again a weakness against low doorways.  Blood and big headache.  I feel even more stupid than normal and that's saying something.

On the same day as my head clash I watched a foreigner lose his temper over something quite trivial.  I wont go into the details but it was another case of someone not understanding the culture here and what people are really up against.  When the tourist came out with "it's not how it's done in my country," I was quick to come out with "bro, chill out, we're in Nepal."  It didn't go down too well as he huffed and puffed his way out.

You have to patient, it's just the way things are.  Patience teaches tolerance and tolerance teaches humility. The issues I've been dealing with these past few days will all be resolved in their own time.  I am a little disappointed some settings for a cellular camera trap still haven't been worked out but it will happen.

So I have to get to over 4000m soon to set cameras.  It's in an area never before monitored, targeting snow leopard but who knows what we'll find.  I have to stay near the region of the cameras for a couple of weeks to dig them out when there is the inevitable snowfall.  The Himalaya at that altitude in winter is an acquired taste, not for everyone.  I like it.  Actually no, I love it.  There are the challenges of staying warm and working in an extreme environment.  Winter camera trapping at altitude means being in the moment but a lot of planning and forethought.  Not a situation in which to be impatient.

It is about being very humble, it's impossible not to be.  The high mountains are unforgiving but at the same time give so much.  I'm very much looking forward to the relationship again.  Respect this environment and some secrets may be revealed.

This is a mission in conjunction with Paras Singh, the regional chief officer of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) and Bikram Shrestra of the Snow Leopard Conservancy (SLC).  Both men act in alliance with the National Trust of Nature Conservation (NTNC) here in Nepal.  Paras and Bikram are both men of great humility, passionate about what they do.  They understand the meaning of patience.

While Paras and Bikram wont be joining me on this expedition we share data and knowledge.  Testing cameras in these conditions is a big part of my script this time but we are all excited about the prospect of getting images of snow leopard.  With the discovery of Pallas's Cat a few days ago in another part of the region it is an exciting time.  I really enjoy the company of researchers like Paras and Bikram and especially because they are so humble.  There is no "I feel awesome because I did this" type talk, just a quiet determination to do the right thing in the knowledge that the job never ends.

I wrote about this attitude in the WildTiger Journal published on New Year's Day.  That was mainly in reference to conservation and anti-poaching icon, Ramesh Thapa.  As the journal explains, Ramesh after a long service to the Bardia region has just taken a transfer to Chitwan National Park.  The balance of humility, understanding and determination is what makes Ramesh so respected.  He knows what he knows and does not step outside that. The tigers of Bardia owe him much but Ramesh would never ever admit that.

I have a reluctance to deal with people who promote their own achievements.  True conservationists don't really possess this trait.  In this age of global communication there is a lot of "eco-warrior" type talk.  The years have taught me that's what it mainly is, talk.

In trying to get things done I don't really look for organizations, I look for people within organizations. People of action.  People who walk the walk.  The people I have mentioned here are very much walking the walk. There are others, some of who you know through my writings, others to be revealed...

For a vision to become more than that, having the right people involved is paramount.  When the vision is working towards UNESCO World Heritage status for two extremely important biodiversity areas where community conservation is key, having the right people supporting the concept with action, passion and above all humility will ensure the right outcome.  The tiger, the forest leopard and the snow leopard depend on it.  We owe them that.

But there is still a lot to be done, we have to work hard ... and we have to be patient.

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